Josie’s Graduation

I had a direct flight from PV to Denver! It was awesome! T=
he weather was beautiful upon my arrival at 80deg. However the next day the w=
eather took a turn for the worse for the remainder of my stay. It snowed in t=
he mornings and rained during the day with highs in the 40s. Not fun coming f=
rom Mexico heat! But it was fun regardless! Josie has great friends and her b=
oyfriend Josh has an amazingly kind family who took care of us all weekend, i=
ncluding a ride to the airport Sunday morning at 6am! The only problem I had=
was keeping up with those college kids! We were out until 3am and they were=
up at 7:30am ready to go! Ughh haha.

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=

PV Time

Marina Riviera Nayarit - beautiful!

Billy returned! The next day was his birthday! But he didn’t want to celebrate (he is feeling old ;) ) and he had a list of chores to do. He pulled apart my perfectly clean boat and pulled out a nasty, rusty muffler that needed to be welded or rebuilt. We rode our folding bikes to the bus stop, folded them up and rode into downtown Puerto Vallarta to the stainless steel welding shop. Closed! What? It’s Tuesday. Apparently it was Labor Day. They have too many holidays here or maybe the problem is everything really shuts down for all these silly holidays. We decided they were celebrating Billy’s birthday!! So Billy had carried this 20 pound muffler down and we had no where to put it. We felt discouraged and stopped down the street at a small hole in the wall restaurant with 5 things on the menu. The food was amazing! A beef dish called birria and quesadilla with mushrooms and squash blossoms. Delicious! Fortunately the very friendly owner offered to watch it for us that night. We came back in the morning and it was still there!

After returning to Firefly in La Cruz we watched a movie and then headed into La Cruz for the festival. We played the best game EVER! Throw rocks at beer bottles, if you break a bottle you get a beer. Awesome! Billy went and was missed all 3 shots. Then another young cruising couple came. He missed and she nicked one! I decided I should take a shot! Why not? I nailed one! Shattering it into a million pieces! It was awesome. The guys were joking about us girls being better ;)

Throwing rocks at beer bottles!!!

The next few days were filled with more Firefly projects, including replacing the broken wind generator blades. I think I forgot to mention this story. While crossing the Thuantepec we caught a large tuna, Billy got excited, grabbed the gaff and stuck it straight into the spinning wind generator. Whoops! Expensive mistake!

Fixing the wind generator blades...

In the afternoons we would kiteboard. Our first day, Wednesday, we went back to the kiteboard hangout in Bucerias. It was windy. Most other girls were on 7m and 8m. Our smallest is a 10! Yikes! Also there are large waves and many other kiters. I talked with a few and got some hints for getting through the waves while body dragging with the board. I was terrible at it! After a half hour of swallowing salt water I was exhausted and feeling defeated. I came in, tried to land the kite, puff caught my kite, I got drug down the beach head first, almost crashing into two people, and was able to turn the kite and stop just a few feet before a barb wire fence. Wow! Billy ran over and released my safety, which I should have done when I first lost control. I was not thinking clearly. It was really scary. But I was unscathed because I had a thick wetsuit on. That’s when I decided I needed a lesson before I killed someone, or myself. I talked to the instructors, who had busy schedules and they said they would work something out.

Billy kiting

The next day, Thursday, Billy was doing a downwind with the group from La Cruz to Bucerias (about 3 miles.) It was really windy! 20-25! The most Billy had ever kited in. I went to help him launch and one of the instructors was there. He, Gonzo, said that his student cancelled because of the big breeze and he could teach me right then! Nice! I ran back, grabbed my stuff and hopped in the car with him. It was a great lesson!! I learned so much! It was the first time I actually got moving! The hard part with kiting here is the breeze is directly on the beach so unless you are good and can go upwind through waves you have to body drag while laying on the board. Not easy! And very tiring! Gonzo told me some great tricks and I soon got it! I would kite down the beach, because I could only go on a broad reach, the Gonzo would take the kite and board from me and kite back up the beach while I walked. It was perfect! But when we decided to end the lesson he went out to practice a few tricks and ended up crashing hard, twisting his kite and lines in a huge mess! There was no way he could relaunch so he had to wait for the kite to drag him into shore (one good thing with onshore breeze!) A friend of his got his board and eventually he made it to shore. I asked him what happened and he responded, “something you never want to have happen when you have a student.” He was very embarrassed and gave me an extremely discounted price on the lesson. It was actually good. I learned that even the really good kiters crash – I don’t need to be afraid or embarrassed about crashing!

I'm a REAL KITER NOW!!!!!

The next day, Friday, we decided to go check on our muffler because the guy at the shop is terrible at communicating! We had no idea what was going on! We had never met him (only his mom in the shop and him on the phone) and the night before he was supposed to meet us at our boat 6:30pm and kept leading us on until nearly 9:00. We walked into the shop and there he was working on our muffler! We were surprised and pleased! That afternoon we worked on the boat. There was water in the bilge that we assumed was coming from a leaking water bladder. We are soooo sick of these things! Then we also found there was a leak in a fitting underneath the bathroom sink.  We were one leaky Firefly!

As Billy and I were getting on the bus to downtown on Thursday a man came running down the street saying, “Bill! Mandi! Unbelievable!” It was a friend of Bill’s from Chicago, Mike Reagan. He was down here with his friend who owned the Sig45, the fancy, fast catamaran that Billy and every guy in the marina has been gaga over. He invited us to go sailing with them on Saturday and Billy and I were ecstatic! It was an awesome day! It blew over 20knots, like it does every day here, and we were going nearly 25knots! It was awesome!!! Also, the man who owned the boat had an interesting story. He was attacked and trampled by an elephant and left for dead in Sumatra nearly three years ago. They are still trying to reattach his foot to his leg. Crazy!

Vamonos! The Sig45

Billy and I sailing the Sig45 Vamonos!

Billy and I on the Sig45 Vamonos!

Another annoying thing is our VHF antenna. It hasn’t been working. We got new cable and replaced the thin old cable in the boat. The cable in the mast was thicker and looked in better shape. Then we began testing it. The AIS was working which was good but we couldn’t get any radio checks back on channel 22. We then pulled out the handhelds but we couldn’t get them to communicate on 22 and a few other channels either. What is going on? We kept trying radio checks, nothing. We noticed the channels that weren’t working said duplex on them. Whats that? Internet search: duplex channels don’t communicate radio to radio, they go through a radio tower and are transmitted back on a different frequency. Unfortunately there are no towers here. So how do all these boats communicate on 22? And we just listened to the net on 22 last week. What the heck is going on?? After hours of messing with this and lots of failed radio checks we decided to take a break and get a beer in the bar. We got up there and started talking to the other cruisers. Did any of you hear our radio checks? They all responded, “oh my god! That was you!! You have been pissing off all of Banderas Bay for the past few hours! Everyone has been responding to your radio checks and telling you to fuck off and and leave the radio alone, it works!” Whoops! Well why couldn’t we hear anything?? One of the ladies at the marina asked us if we were on channel 22 US or Canada. No, we’re aren’t in the US or Canada why would we be on those channels? We are on international 22. Oh you can’t be on international, it transmits but does not receive. What? Why would it do that? Internet research: US 22 is not duplex but international 22 is and it transmits on the same frequency as US 22 but receives on a different frequency. How complicated! Wow! Sorry everyone listening on channel 22 in Banderas Bay!

Tearing apart poor Firefly

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Dad Visits!! (Billy Gone)

Dad just left after the two of us had a fun adventure! We rented a car and drove north along the coast to visit the small beach towns of Sayulita and Rincon. Sayulita was a happening hippy town full of gringos chilling and surfing the beautiful break. Rincon was more of a wealthy Mexican resort town with a crowded beach.

Sayulito

Rincon

We heard from other cruisers that some of the towns up in the mountains were quite nice. Since I know Billy and I won’y make it up there and we had a car Dad and I decided to make a run for it! We came back to Firefly, grabbed overnight bags, locked her up, and took off! We drove as far as we could through peaceful Mexican mountain towns before nightfall made us stop in a cute town call Talpa. We stayed the night in an adorable (and cheap!) hotel on the main square, across the street from the beautiful cathedral!

Driving through the countryside

View from our hotel in Talpa!

We woke up early the next morning on a mission! We are visiting Tequila, Mexico! The capital of tequila distilleries! It was a long drove and a VERY long drive back to Firefly but we were determined to make it! We arrived around noon and scheduled a tour at Jose Cuervo for 3pm (the reviews said it was the best) and walked around to find others! Unfortunately many did not have tours in the afternoon on Saturday :( We got to Sauza just as the last tour (in Spanish) was leaving. They were apologetic and let us join the tour for free! It was a great tour! The guide spoke English and answered any questions we had. And after the tour we got a seriously delicious mango margarita and a shot of the nice stuff! Still free! WOW do they treat people right at Sauza! Then we hurried back to Cuervo for our tour which was very nice as well! We were the only English speakers so we had a private tour, including a trip to the family reserves and a lesson on tasting tequila (similar to wine with different smells, it was quite interesting!) By then it was already 4pm and we had a 4 hour drive home. I wish we could have visited some of the smaller distilleries but we still had a great time! And we really enjoyed driving through the Mexican mountains – very beautiful!

In the Cuervo Factory family cellar

We returned to La Cruz exhausted but hungry. We went to Philo’s where Philo, with his famous washboard, was playing with a really good band! We had a pizza and went to bed.

In the morning we had an amazing brunch at the La Cruz Yacht Club. It was expensive but came with unlimited mimosas and bloody marys and the food was delicious! Dad then had to leave :( (( and I’m alone for another day :(

Oh well, lots to do on Firefly!

Puerto Vallarta Area

The boardwalk in Puerto Vallarta

Billy and I had a fun, but busy few days after our arrival. Visiting La Cruz, Bucerias, Paradise Village and Puerto Vallarta all in a day and a half.

Shortly after dropping our anchor Monday morning we launched the dinghy and headed ashore to the Marina Riviera Nayarit. Motoring past the outer boats in the marina Billy says, “hey I know that guy, that’s Wayne Zittel!” Who? Apparently they grew up sailing with each other at Mission Bay Yacht Club, only Wayne was maybe 6-7 years older. Wayne owned J World Puerto Vallarta and was so helpful! He gave us all sorts of info on the area and gave us rides around town. So nice in a new place!

Monday we walked around La Cruz, which was not what we were expecting. So many people spoke of what a wonderful place it was and after coming from the adorable town of Zihuatanejo (and even Barra de Navidad) this place looked like a shitty little Mexican village. Streets with large holes, dilapidated buildings, extremely dusty, and no cute architecture like in other towns – just very plain. And plus it was Monday and nearly everything was closed. The wind picked up in the afternoon and we took the dinghy to the next town over, Bucerias, which has a nice long beach with little waves, perfect for kiteboarding! Soon there were maybe 5 kites out with Billy. I was still feeling sick and the water was cold so I opted to skip out and watch from ashore. My last experience kiteboarding was the time I lost the board – I need to get back out there! We met some other friendly kiters down the beach who gave lessons so I plan to do that next week.

On Tuesday Wayne gave us a ride to Paradise Village. We walked around feeling like we weren’t in Mexico anymore. Everyone was gringo and old or our of shape. We tried to go to Vallarta Yacht Club (buddies with SDYC) but were declined membership benefits because we didn’t have our SDYC cards – we travel with limited wallets abroad so if robbed we don’t lose everything. It’s a shame we couldn’t go, we are both members. It’s kind of waste for both of us to be members but whatever.

After deciding we wanted to get back to Mexico and reasonable prices we hopped on a local bus headed for Puerto Vallarta. We walked the boardwalk and all around town, through the markets. Now this is a cute town also! Although, it is really a city with lots of loud noises and cars, which isn’t nice. We then visited a stainless steel welder who is going to help us with a few projects and ended up sitting at the wrong bus stop for 30min. We finally asked around and figured out we needed to walk around the corner – whoops! We got a few things from Walmart and hopped on our bus back to La Cruz. We had a nice evening with Wayne eating ribs and drinking Pacifico.

In the morning (Wednesday) Wayne gave Billy a ride to the airport, he was flying to Palm Beach to race Melges 32s, and I was alone on Firefly. Fortunately, earlier that morning Billy and I moved Firefly to the Marina Riviera Nayarit, where I would be safer. And also fortunately, I found out on Tuesday that my dad was coming to visit Thursday night – Sunday midday. That only left me alone 1.5 days in the beginning and 1 day before Billy came back. Lots of cleaning to be done! :)

Navidad to La Cruz, Banderas Bay

Leaving Bahia de Navidad

We pulled anchor the next morning and set off for La Cruz, an inlet/town near Puerto Vallarta in Banderas Bay. We motored out into the ocean and to our surprise and delight it was not upwind! Very light so we still had to motor, but not upwind! I went below and made a nice peanut sauce stirfry for lunch on the peaceful motor! Just as lunch was finishing we decided to pull into a small bay for the afternoon, we had been making such good time, going over 7knots with what must have been favorable current. We decided to try Paraiso, our secret anchorage! We anchored off an apparently deserted resort and spent the afternoon completely alone, for the first time since Panama! Maybe we were the only boat in an anchorage in Costa Rica once but my sister and boyfriend were on the boat so it was different. This time we were totally alone and it was so peaceful! We only stayed a few hours and then pulled anchor for our overnight to La Cruz.

Our private anchorage in Paraiso :)

It was an uneventful, calm night. Except our VHF antennae which has been fading is toast and now our AIS is apparently not transmitting/receiving. Fortunately we have handhelds and the radar is still functional. I did want to talk about phantom radio calls though. They seem to happen every night but the ones that concern me are the ones that occur when you are over 5 miles from shore (or in the case of Tuhuantepec, 50miles from shore) and there is nothing on the radar. Where are these coming from? They always spook me.

The phosphorescence was again brilliant! Dolphins came to play and I could see the entire outline of their bodies, crystal clear as they bolted around the boat!

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Bahia de Navidad

The laguna at Barra de Navidad was still calm which was nice for a change. The wind picked up so Billy could fly the kite to take pictures for Firefly! The town of Barra was nice, it has been the most touristy place we have been, with many boutique shops and nice restaurants. It seems to get more touristy as we go up the coast. The water taxis to and from town were incredible! So reliable and cheap! We never put the dinghy in. I became very sick, sleeping most of the day.

Fog rolling in over Barra de Navidad

View from Barra de Navidad

We stayed in the laguna for about 24hrs then decided to change it up. We pulled anchor, went out into the main bay (Bahia de Navidad) and motored through the fog to anchor off Melaque. After the fog cleared it proved to be a great decision, we were anchored alone in a beautiful little cove just off the town. Later we launched the dinghy without the engine and paddle ashore. We then had the best street tacos of our lives! Literally sitting on the street with cars driving by – real street tacos!

Fog motoring from Barra to Melaque

Firefly anchored off Melaque - beautiful!

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To Bahia de Navidad

Our cushions were amazingly finished when the Mexican said they were going to be finished. Wow! I was not expecting that! We quickly grabbed some groceries and left shortly thereafter – about 9pm for our 1.5 day trip to Bahia Navidad. Shockingly, it was upwind, AGAIN! The entire time!! I am so sick of motoring upwind!

You know you are spoiled when: you throw back a dorado (mahi-mahi) even though you have no fish in the fridge. I had already started cooking the beef for Billy’s favorite spaghetti sauce – comfort food for him since he was sick – when we caught the dorado and to my surprise Billy decided to throw it back! When we started this season’s journey in Panama last November/December I had to beg Billy to release fish even though the fridge was stocked full of fish and there were no other boats for days to share the catch with. We have become quite picky since then. We also caught and released a Spanish mackerel.

The phosphorescence during the two nights was absolutely amazing! I have never seen anything like it! I saw large bait balls with larger creatures circling and darting into the ball creating brilliant arcs. Occasionally as we motored along I would see huge powerfully light up jets of phosphorescence dart underneath the boat and out of sight. I thought to myself: is there always this much life in the water and I just don’t see it because there is no phosphorescence? Because there are a lot of big creatures in the water here and I definitely do not want to fall over the board!

Just before I woke up Billy and fell asleep the last night fog rolled in – errie. I didn’t realize how thick it was until Billy woke me up three hours later as we were approaching Bahia de Navidad. You could only see 100ft! We approached the bay slowly and made it in safely. We fueled up, went into town for breakfast, and anchored out in Barra de Navidad’s laguna. I unfortunately acquired Billy’s cold – the never-ending runny nose, sneezing, itchy throat, head cold! Yuck!

Zihuatanejo

We both felt very ill upon arrival in Zihuatanejo. My liver was giving me random shooting pains (too much booze!), Billy felt a cold coming on, and we both were fatigued. We spent most of the next two days sleeping, trying to get a little exercise, and searching the boat for more toilet paper so Billy could blow his nose every 10min – poor thing! We also got our cushions reupholstered for a good price with good quality! Unfortunately the color is very similar to the color of the wood. Oh well, it is better than the old stuff and we will just have to find pillows to complement the color. We also hung some photos and a pacific-centered map. It’s really starting to look like a home now! Our home!

Firefly's new homey look :)

Also, the water is cold here and it’s quite chilly at night! This is the first time we have used a blanket over our thin sheet since we left Key West in December 2010. Pretty amazing!!

Zihuatanejo!